An editorial archive on the major sites of the Nile Valley and the Western Desert. Long-form notes on the Grand Egyptian Museum, Tahrir, Karnak, the Theban necropolis and Nubia — assembled slowly, revised by season.
Each entry follows the same shape — a short historical placement, the present-day reality, and the small practical notes that rarely appear in printed guidebooks.
Two decades in the making, the GEM finally opened in late 2025. A walk through the atrium, the grand staircase, the Tutankhamun galleries — and the long lineage of objects that travelled from Tahrir.
Read the entry →
After the partial transfer to the GEM, the salmon-pink palace of 1902 is being recurated. The Amarna heads, the Yuya and Tjuyu furniture, the prehistoric galleries — what to find now in the historic rooms.
Read the entry →
One hundred and thirty-four columns in the Great Hypostyle Hall, ram-headed sphinxes along the dromos, Hatshepsut's obelisk. A reading of the precinct in the order the priests once walked it.
Read the entry →
A walking note across the western hills. Which tombs are open this season, what the painted ceilings of Seti I and Ramesses VI actually look like, and how to read a royal tomb from corridor to burial chamber.
Read the entry →
Ramesses II's Great Temple and the smaller temple of his queen Nefertari. The 1960s UNESCO relocation that lifted both above Lake Nasser, and the twice-yearly alignment of the sun on the inner sanctuary.
Read the entry →
Archaeological editor based in Cairo and Alexandria. Trained in Egyptology at the American University in Cairo and at the École française d'Athènes. Writes on the long history of Egyptian sites, on the lives of museum objects, and on the slow work of cultural conservation. More about the project →